Raspberries

I am so excited my friends in your interest in planting raspberries, there is nothing greater than to go outside and pick your own fresh fruit, not only is it perfectly ripe and delicious, but you know how it was grown. Raspberries today may be grown on farms that use pesticides or herbicides, they could be picked before peak, packaged and may travel long distances in less than ideal conditions, finally unloaded onto grocery shelves, all this before brought home for your use. Raspberries are a gourmet fruit because they do not ship well they are sweet and so fragrant and should be used soon.   

Raspberries are composed of a cluster of druplets (individual tiny fruits) and each druplet contains a single seed, they are shaped like caps with a hollow core where the stem was.

Nutritional and Health Benefits

Raspberries besides tasting so great are low in calories 65/cup, contain 32% dietary fiber, 43% Vitamin C, 36% manganese, 12% copper, 11% Vitamin K, 8% pantothenic acid, 8% biotin, 7% vitamin E, 6% folate,  6% magnesium, 5% Vitamin B-6, 6% omega-3 fats, 4% Iron, and 3% Calcium.  These are just some of the 80 nutrients raspberries contain! Raspberries (especially organic which contain higher levels) are also rich in flavonoids like anthocyanin which give them their color! Berry flavonoids are antioxidant and anti-inflammatory which repairs oxidative damage.  Anti-inflammation foods are the key to staying healthy and warding off many diseases.  Anthocyanin can cross the blood brain barrier, and that is why scientists think it is good for the brain.  Diets high in fruits like berries protect vascular health and may ward off dementia, additionally compounds found in berries can counteract advanced glycation end products (AGE’s) which have been linked to age related changes. Anti-cancer benefits of raspberries are also attributed to their phytonutrients, and phytonutrient ellagitannins in raspberries may decrease cancer cell numbers by sending signals that encourage them to enter a cycle of death. Rheosmin a raspberry ketone may decrease obesity and risk of fatty liver.

History and Facts

The red raspberry (Rubus idaeous) belongs to the rose family, is believed to have originated in Asia and North America. Palladius a Roman agriculturist wrote about growing raspberries in the 4 th century. Europeans used raspberry juices during medieval times for paintings and manuscripts. By the 17^th century British gardens contained berry bushes, soon all of Europe was growing berries. Native Americans dried berries for easy travel. My favorite founding father, George Washington, grew berries in his Mount Vernon garden.

Rubus idaeus means bramble bush of Ida, named for the mountain where they grew on the island of Crete. “Raspberry” means “sweet rose-colored wine” from the Old French “raspise”.

Raspberries in Christian art represented kindness, it was also used as a symbol of fragility since it is so delicate. In the Philippines a raspberry cane hung outside the house is thought to keep evils spirits out.

Evidence of raspberry cultivation dates back 2000 years ago, currently over 200 species exist, and they rank as the third most popular berry in the USA (Strawberries and blueberries rank higher).

I have grown the everbearing (having a harvest in June and again in September) raspberry plants organically in my yard for 12 years, the only thing I have added to the soil has been my own produced compost.  Growing raspberries requires very little effort for all the enjoyment you and your family will have eating them.

Planting your Raspberry plant – Select an area with full sun or partial shade, dig the soil wider and deeper than your plants roots (they will spread).  I always plant them 2 inches deeper than the dirt line that existed.  Make sure all roots are covered with soil or the plant will dry out, better yet top them with a layer of compost. Plant each raspberry about 1-3 feet apart, this will allow sunlight and air to reach each plant.  Starting with a single mature cane, which is called a Floricane will bear fruit.  New shoots arise from the plant are called primocanes, as well as suckers that grow away from the plant out of the root. You can move these producing raspberry plants if too crowded.  They prefer a slightly acidic soil with a pH of 6.0 to 6.5 and high organic soil with good drainage. The plants need about 1-2 inches of water per week, but do not over water or if the roots remain wet, root rot can set in. Keeping the area weed free will give them more nutrients and water without competition.

Fall Pruning- After the first hard frost prune your canes down, most recommend cutting the cane at ground level, I prefer and have had better luck cutting the cane about one foot above ground level, I cut the cane at an angle, it provides a difficult surface water, dirt, or pests to do damage. If in the spring I see side shoots I prune them, maintaining the cane.  Clean up all the leaf debris and your plants are set for spring. Cover with compost or mulch.

Pests

I have not had any real problem with pests, but have listed those most common to raspberries.

Animals

Protect your raspberries especially in the spring the new shoots can be nibbled by deer and rabbits, if your new shoots are eaten they will not produce. I have a 6 foot fence, and about 18 inches of chicken wire attached to the bottom of the fence and buried into the ground to prevent critters from digging in.   I have grown raspberries outside the fence as well, the deer did not bother them, but now they seem to be eating “everything”.  If you do not have a fenced yard it might be good to stake/fence/net your plants. Only chipmunks and birds have occasionally been a problem, but have figured out that by not trellising the plants they have a harder time getting to the fruit. All animals can be a problem (bear, raccoons, and skunks) so best to protect your plants.

Insects

Fortunately due to complete organic gardening methods inviting beneficial insects to the garden my raspberries have never had an insect infestation.

Aphids can be a problem and spread disease, Japanese beetles can feed on the fruit, Tarnished Plant Bug can feed on the buds, blossoms, and berries (keep weeds away from your plants to limit this pest), Sap beetles may be attracted to overripe and fermenting fruit (harvest ripe fruit), during times of hot heat spider mites could cause leaves to speckle and  turn pale, raspberry sawfly larvae may feed on young leaves leaving a leaf skeleton, eastern raspberry fruit worms may feed on the leaves, buds, and berry cores (cleaning debris so adult beetles do not overwinter), Cane borers cause shoot tips or whole canes to wilt and die during the growing season, (cut wilted cane 6 inches below the puncture hole made by the borer (two parallel lines of holes around the cane), crown borers feed at the base and roots of the plant (cut wilted shoots below ground level, squash eggs on leaves in the summer).

Diseases

Following diseases may affect raspberries; mosaic (stunts the growth of the plant), sterility (produces malformed berries or none) and leaf curl (malformed leaves).  Infected plants should be removed there is no cure for any of these.  Prevent disease by not planting near wild brambles. Anthracnose, cane blight, verticillium (do not grow in an area that had tomato, potato, peppers or strawberries), phytophthora, fungi, powdery mildew, and crown galls can be problems. As mentioned earlier provide good air circulation, remove canes and debris in the fall and discard.  Avoid extra nitrogen and do not water overhead to prevent these diseases.

Trellising – many gardeners trellis or support raspberry plants.  Trellising can save space, prevent wind damage, make pruning and picking easier.  A T- trellis causing the canes outward and new shoots (primocanes) grow straight. Hedgerow trellis is easier. I have found that when I trellised the plants it was easier for birds and chipmunks to eat the fruit.  When canes were not trellised (takes more space) they hang down as the weight of the berries at the top of cane weigh down the plant. This makes it harder for a chipmunk to climb up or birds to land on the plant. 

Spring

Early spring check your plants and remove any side sprouts that may have sprouted from the fall cut cane if you want a more productive cane. Your plants will produce shoots and will grow steadily and leaf out in the spring.  They will bud in late June and continue through til fall (usually up til the first frost) they will be covered with bees that are so happy to pollinate your plants to produce fruit for you.  Gently picking your fruit with the bees present is not a problem they just move on to the next set of buds.

Summer to Fall and Harvesting

To pick berries hold a leaf firmly near your berry bunch avoiding the thorns, mature berries which are firm and plump only need a gentle grasp between your two fingers and the berry will ease off almost falling into your hand. I pick the berries every day, if I will be away and some of the berries are turning I will pick them cutting the stem.  If you try to pull an immature berry off it will break apart and you may damage the bunch because you will have to pull harder, better to snip the stem, left on the counter in the kitchen the immature berries will ripen. If your berries have white spots on they have received too much sun and are scorched they will taste fine.  If they get too much direct sun consider moving them. Berries left too long will be over ripe, very soft, darker and may be moldy.

A simple rinse of water right before use is all that is necessary for your home grown berries (using a colander or strainer). Do not submerge or soak them.  Store extras in the refrigerator in a container to use soon (just a few days), I usually place a paper towel under them to absorb any excess water.  If you have too many to enjoy right away you can freeze them by placing them on a tray in the freezer so they are separate and once frozen place in a freezer bag with as little air as possible, place back in the freezer.  They taste fabulous in the dead of winter, close your eyes and taste the summer.  Make an easy jam with raspberries (3 parts) and sugar (1 part) heat in a pan, continue for 10 minutes and place in clean jar and refrigerate. Pectin is not needed because of the raspberries natural pectin.

Wishing you success in growing your raspberries and you will certainly be rewarded for your effort!

Sources

Rodale’s All-New Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening, copyright 1992 by Rodale Press, Inc.

Cornell Cooperative Extension of Delaware County, Extension Connection June/July 2018

Whfoods.org (the world’s healthiest foods)

Indepthinfo.com